The Blake Project, the brand consultancy behind Branding Strategy Insider, delivers interactive brand education workshops and keynote speeches designed to align marketers on essential concepts in brand management and empower them to release the full potential of the brands they manage.
Category: Luxury Branding
24 Just sell marginally on the Internet
Selling on the Internet is strictly hype in luxury marketing. Many marketers seem to think that if you do not sell on the Internet, you are ‘out’. There, the distinction between luxury, fashion and premium strategy of prestige brands operating on the luxury market is crucial. Internet sales are extremely well adapted to fashion and premium, but not to luxury. Self-proclaimed ‘web specialists’ fault the luxury companies for not selling online, forgetting – or ignoring – that all the ‘plusses’ of digital trade (instantaneity, permanent change and actualization, availability, accessibility, price reductions, automation of service, crowdsourcing, etc.) are huge ‘minuses’ for luxury. Luxury purchase needs time and effort to be deserved, true price and no discounts on excessive prices, one-to-one relationships with the salespeople and not with a machine, feeling of belonging to a ‘club’ of selected people and not being part of an anonymous crowd. The Internet can be used as a complementary service for existing customers, or as initiation to the brand story or to the product for potential and selected new customers. It cannot be used as a selling tool, except for products that are not part of the luxury strategy of the brand, such as fashion lines or entry products.
Contributed to Branding Strategy Insider by: JN Kapferer, excerpted from his book, The Luxury Strategy with permission from Kogan Page publishing.
See all of the Anti-laws of Luxury Marketing here.
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Read MoreThe Anti-laws Of Luxury Marketing #23
By Derrick Daye23 Do not look for cost reduction
Creating value is the motto in luxury marketing. But this value creation must not come from cost reduction. It must come from added value. Being creative is not enough to sustain a systematic price increase - which is the key issue in luxury. For example, brands need lots of creativity in a low-cost industry to reduce costs and invent new business models, sell at a significant lower price than competition, and be profitable – but this is the job of the CEO. Luxury brands need lots of creativity in the fashion industry to keep selling at the same price point – but this is the job of the designer. In luxury, you must install the whole company in the creating value process: luxury value creation does not rely only on the talent of a creator, but on each employee of the company:
• Production people: lots of new ideas originate on the workshop floor. This is the reason why a luxury company must make its products and not relocate production – creation teams live in symbiosis with artisans.
• Sales staff: new ideas come from customers – not by pandering to their wishes, but by understanding their dream. This is why you must have your own sales staff (they are fully part of the company) and why they must be local – the customer must be able to talk in his or her language with sales people sharing his or her culture.
• And, of course, top managers must lead the value creation process.
Contributed to Branding Strategy Insider by: JN Kapferer, excerpted from his book, The Luxury Strategy with permission from Kogan Page publishing.
See all of the Anti-laws of Luxury Marketing here.
Sponsored By: The Brand Positioning Workshop
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Read More22 Do not implement group synergies
Implementing group synergies is one of the most obvious ways to improve the net financial result of a brand. But, as Ford discovered with Jaguar and GM with Saab, in luxury, it is the best way to destroy the dream of the brand. For some pennies saved, you lose your pricing power – one of the strongest points of a luxury strategy. This is well known in the luxury market – as proven by the number of luxury brands that have been almost eliminated by group synergies implementation — where improving the net financial result is the ultimate goal.
Luxury brands face this threat each time one is acquired by an organization who does not understand luxury strategy. One example is Dell’s acquisition of Alienware in 2006. Founded in 1996 in Miami, Alienware was the success story of luxury gaming laptop and desktop computers. In 2005, Alienware had a net profit of $170 million. To improve on already strong profits, Dell decided to reduce production costs. This was counter to Alienware's business strategy which had built its success on using the best elements among all suppliers – whatever the cost. A strategy which earned the brand thousands of passionate and loyal customers. Discounts were never offered nor needed. Willing to implement ‘group synergies’, Dell cancelled all of the agreements with top-end suppliers, relocated production to Poland, created new distribution agreements and offered discounts on the corporate website. The result: Alienware remains a premium brand, but has lost its aura - and its pricing power. This is why luxury groups such as LVMH maintain the independence of their brands as much as they can.
Contributed to Branding Strategy Insider by: JN Kapferer, excerpted from his book, The Luxury Strategy with permission from Kogan Page publishing.
See all of the Anti-laws of Luxury Marketing here.
Sponsored By: The Brand Positioning Workshop
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Read MoreThe Anti-laws Of Luxury Marketing #21
By Derrick Daye21 Do not look for consensus
Testing implies looking for consensus: any option could be chosen as long as it is elected by the majority of common consumers. In fact, intimacy with luxury decision makers teaches us that big success as a rule creates a lot of discussion within the company itself. This can be held as a working principle of luxury brand management. The key questions are: How to lead? Are consensual decisions the sign that it will be a lasting success or a temporary fad? Interestingly, in the perfume business – which is dominated by mass strategies – the most successful fragrance launch of the past 20 years, Angel, was chosen despite poor test results. Its success was driven by a minority of respondents that rallied around the product’s new and completely original scent. Religions start the same way: they succeed in creating a sect of militants and advocates.
Contributed to Branding Strategy Insider by: JN Kapferer, excerpted from his book, The Luxury Strategy with permission from Kogan Page publishing.
See all of the Anti-laws of Luxury Marketing here.
Sponsored By: The Brand Positioning Workshop
FREE Publications And Resources For Marketers
Read MoreThe Anti-laws Of Luxury Marketing #20
By Derrick Daye20 Do not hire management consultants
Management Consultants sell ‘do like others’. This is called benchmarking or also ‘best practices’. Using management consultants, formed in global MBAs to the universals of management, in this way would erode the specific characteristics of a luxury brand – and its ability to maintain its pricing power to this specificity.
Let’s take a dramatic example: any non-luxury automobile manufacturer should be obsessed by reducing costs. This is why industrial platforms strategies, sharing all back-office costs, are so widely spread. By the same token, relocations are nothing but normal for a mass brand and even a premium or super-premium one. When one buys an Audi every single dollar paid is to bring a return on investment: you pay for what you get (more functionalities, that is all). Now, should the same rules apply to a brand considered as luxury such as Jaguar? Once bought by Ford, a very well-managed traditional company, soon the cost consultants were hired, bringing with them methods which eroded the dream. Why would a reader of Forbes or Fortune still want to buy a Jaguar as a luxury car when reading in his journal how much Ford was doing an excellent job by sharing the Ford Mondeo structure and parts with some Jaguar models? This is how the Ford Company killed the dream and could not have Jaguar regaining its luxury status – and had to sell it to the Indian company Tata. And Tata is now returning to the luxury strategy for Jaguar, to turn around the brand.
By bringing methods from any normal economic sector, management consultants instill the poison of averaging everything. Luxury pricing power is not based on cost reduction but on added value and feelings of uniqueness.
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